Domaine visits

Philippe Garrey

Philippe Garrey took over the tiny family domaine in 2002. He bought two additional vineyards (Clos Paradis and Clos de Montaigu, both premier cru) which results in a domaine of 3,5 ha. All vineyards are located conveniently close to the winery in Saint-Martin-sous-Montaigu, just outside of the village of Mercurey. All vineyards are within the appellation Mercurey with the exception of a parcel of Bourgogne rouge, the grapes of which are being sold to he negoce. In 2007 Philippe completed the conversion towards bio-dynamics.  

I think the wines of Philippe are terrific, in my opion he is already one of the top producers of Mercurey!

2006 Mercurey blanc (from bottle). From 1 single parcel, +/- 2000 bottles produced. Refined nose. Full and round, soft and elegant. A minerally touch. Tense. Good length and freshness.  Very attractive white Mercurey.

2007 Mercurey blanc (from barrel).  A little bit of reduction on the nose.  Very fresh and elegant, a bit minerally.  Good body. Nice.

2006 Mercurey Vieilles Vignes rouge (from bottle). From 2 different parcels. Refined, seductive nose. Lovely sappy red fruit. Lots of elegance and intensity. Very pure and fresh. Long finish with really soft tannins. Delicious!

2006 Mercurey 1er cru Chassieres rouge (from bottle).  More richness on the nose.  A bit more tight and full on the palate, yet still good freshness. Some oak and minerals. Very good.

2007 Mercurey 1er cru Chassieres rouge (from barrel). A tiny bit of reduction. Full, pure and fresh cherry fruit. Long, refreshing, a bit prickly.  Very promising.

2007 Mercurey Vieilles Vignes rouge (from barrel). Very fruity, open, pure and elegant.  Already really lovely.

2007 Mercurey 1er cru Clos de Montaigu rouge (from barrel).  A bit more elegant style compared to the Chassieres, a bit more full-bodied compared to the Vieilles Vignes.  But just as lovely.

2007 Mercurey 1er cru Clos du Paradis (from barrel). Light colour, had just been sulphured. Very refined, clean. Refreshing acidity. Lots of depth. Very good!

July 2008

Philippe Guillemot

All wines tasted from bottle with young Philippe Guillemot (in his early twenties), son of Jean-Pierre who currently runs the domaine. This is nice classic Burgundy (even a bit old-fashioned, in the positive sense of the word) with good ageing potential, but the 2006's are really lovely and accessible already. Highly recommened!

2005 Savigny-les-Beaune blanc Made with 70% pinot blanc (a pinot noir mutant) . Round and quite full. Good intensity and harmony. Long, with good grip. Quite different from ordinary white Burgundy, but really interesting.

2006 Savigny-les-Beaune blanc A bit more zesty compared to the ’05. Full, nice balance and freshness.  Tiny bitterness on the finish.  Very interesting wine.

2006 Bourgogne rouge From parcels in Savigny, but outside the appellation borders. Really light colour. Fresh fruitiness. Soft tannins, yet good intensity. Light style, but good classic Bourgogne.

2004 Savigny-les-Beaune rouge Vegetal, herbal nose. Green peppers. A bit tight and unripe on the palate. Fresh. Tight tannins. Typical 2004. Not my wine (like most 2004 reds).

2005 Savigny-les-Beaune rouge Very different from ’04, obviously.  More richesse on the nose. Crème de cassis. Closing down now, but the structure is nice. Solid (but ripe) tannins.

2005 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er cru Les Serpentieres Rich, ripe nose. Dark fruits. Very fresh and pure. Lots of intensity. A bit austere tannins. Really nice, but made for the long haul.

2006 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er cru Les Serpentieres Beautiful, fruity nose. Very elegant, fresh and pure. Tannins are much softer compared to the ’05. Lovely.

2006 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er cru Narbantons Softer and even more accessible than the Serpentieres. Cherry fruit. Quite some tannins, but they are soft. Nice. 

2006 Corton Parcel acquired in 1998. Very rich nose. Ripe, vibrant, long. Powerful. Massive tannins. Great Corton, but will need a lot of patience.

1995 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er cru Les Serpentieres Ripe on the nose. Still very youthfull and fresh on the palate. Lots of fruit and acidity. Massive, dry tannins that will need a lot of time to integrate with the wine. If ever...

July 2008

Juliette and Caroline Chenu

My first encounter with this domaine was at this years Grands Jours. I liked the wines, so I decided to visit the domaine with a good friend, newborn wine importer David Bolomey.

Although Louis Chenu is not (yet) a well-known name, the domaine was founded in 1914 already. But until recently they sold everthing to the negoce. A few years ago sisters Juliette and Caroline took over the family domaine, and decided to change things radically.

They now sell two third of their production under their own label (and a pretty label that is, too!) and they started the conversion towards working organically. Also, a new vineyard was bought (premier cru Les Lavieres). The vineyard holdings of the domaine are now about 9 hectares. Caroline, who is responsible for the winemaking, changed the character of the wines towards a more fruity and accessible style.

A propos winemaking: harvesting is done by hand, and after a severe triage the grapes are completely de-stemmed and crushed. There is just a short pre fermentation soaking of the must. Pigeage is practiced once a day. Elevage takes place in barrels (of which about 20% new) and lasts about a year. After that the wines are kept in cuves for around six months.

All this results in fruity wines with lots of elegance, that I can really recommend.

Tasted from bottle:

2006 Savigny-les-Beaune blanc Made of chardonnay and (around 10%) pinot blanc. Elevage in barrels (20% new) Bottled september, just before the harvest. Fruity on the nose, a little bit tropical along with a rustic touch. Supple, fresh, easy.  Small bitterness towards the end.

2006 Savigny-les-Beaune rouge Vieilles Vignes From 2 parcels, 40 to 60 year old vines. Light strawberry colour. A bit closed on the nose. Pleasant, light fruitiness. A little bit spicy. Finishes a bit tight with slight tannins.

2006 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er cru Aux Clous Lots of fruit on the nose. Some minerals and spices. Supple, round and fruity. Quite light, but with good intensity. Easy to like.

2006 Savigny-les-Beaune  1er cru Les Lavieres Cherry-like nose. A bit earthy and spicy. Less fruity for now compared to the Cloux, but more intensity and length.

2006 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er cru Haut Jarrons On the Beaune-side of Savigny, so different style. Really attractive nose! More full-bodied, yet still round and fruity. A bit earthy. Refreshing acidity. The fruit is richer, the tannins are more present.

Tasted from barrel:

2007 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er cru Aux Clous An assemblage made on the spot from 4 different barrels.  Little bit of reduction; no soutirage. Very pure and fresh fruit. Cranberry and sour cherry. Very pleasant already.

2007 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er cru Les Lavieres Again, assembled from 4 different barrels.  Starts a little bit prickly. Round fruitiness. Fresh and elegant . Destined for early pleasure.

2007 Savigny-les-Beaune blanc A touch of wood on the nose, but this will integrate. Sappy, fresh, elegant. Zesty acidity. I like this more than the ’06.

July 2008

Oronce de Beler

Which Burgundy lover doesn't dream about moving to the area, and making his own wine? Oronce de Beler made this dream come through. This young Parisian came to Vosne-Romanee, and moved in to one of the oldest buildings in the village, the 13th century "Maison Romane". His core buisiness: ploughing vineyards by horse. He is doing this for several prestigious domaines: Clos de Lambrays, Thibault Liger-Belair, Domaine des Epeneaux, Comtes Lafon -amongst others. But he also attended the Lycee Viticole in Beaune, and -as a negociant- started to make his own wine: Oroncio, viniculture classique.

Because of his ploughing jobs he has a lot of contacts with wine growers, which enables him to buy good grapes. In 2006 he made a white Pernand-Vergelesses, Nuits-Saint-Georges rouge, Gevrey-Chambertin, Corton-Charlemagne, and red and white Bourgogne called "Star Terre" (bought in as wine, not grapes). He rented space with another vigneron in Vosne-Romanee to do the vinification, and did the elevage in the small cellars below his Maison Romane. He uses hardly any new wood and avoids pumping. Bottling is done by hand, without fining or filtration.

Due to tiny quantities almost all 2006 is sold out, but I was still able to taste the following wines (from bottle):

2006 Bourgogne chardonnay "Star Terre" Although labeled as just Bourgogne, this is actually from Saint-Veran. Full, rich, ripe and a bit sweetish. Good intensity and length. Crowd pleaser.

2006 Gevrey-Chambertin "Billard" Opulent, sweetish fruit. Rich and ripe, but also very pure and silky soft. Very nice!

Starting with the 2007 vintage, his portfolio will be different. There will be a Chambolle-Musigny and a Pommard 1er cru. Part of the deal of obtaining this grapes is that Oronce ploughs the vineyards for free: this gives him a great opportunity to observe the vineyard and check on the quality of the grapes several times per season. Also new in the 2007 vintage: a Pouilly-Fume... No, it's not a typing error: a Loire wine! Oronce bought a barrel of must right after the pressing. And that's not all: he also will be offering a Chateauneuf-du-Pape, also bought in as must right after the harvest.

Tasted from barrel:

2007 Pouilly-Fume Nice expressive Sauvignon nose. Lots of intensity and tension. Ripe and sweetish, with nice acidity to balance. Very promising!

2007 Chambolle-Musigny "Les Foucheres" Only 30% of the grapes destemmed.  Very elegant, pure and fresh. Very Chambolle; soft and silky. Good length. Lovely!

2007 Pommard 1er cru Largillieres Also made of mostly whole bunches. Spicy nose. Ripe, pure dark fruits. Very soft and elegant, no sign of Pommard rusticity. Nice ripe tannins. Very long. Really nice!

Last but not least: you can rent a nice gite (holiday appartment) in Maison Romane. Great place to stay, in the heart of Vosne-Romaneé.

June 2008

Etienne Grivot

We were very lucky to be able to taste here now, because they were busy bottling. We were tasting with Etienne Grivot standing between the cuves in which the wines were assembled, ready for bottling. Although Grivot has a reputations for making wines that age well, all 2006 wines were surprisingly accessible already. It was great fun tasting with Etienne. He is a very passionate winemaker, but he is also a very funny guy. And his wines were as great as can be aspected from one of the top winemakers of Burgundy!

2006 Vosne-Romanee Ripe red and black fruits on the nose. A bit spicy. Quite full, ripe, intense and a bit sweetish. Long finish, minerally. Fine tannins.

2006 Vosne-Romanee  1e cru Les Brulées  A bit closed on the nose. Nice black berries. Full, elegant, lots of freshness. Lovely pure fruit. Good structure. Very long, lots of grip.

2006 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru Aux Boudots  Bottled the day of our visit. A bit animal nose, along with lots of ripe black fruit. Full, round, ripe, sweetish. Quite concentrated, yet elegant and fresh. Slightly earthy finish.

2006 Clos Vougeot A parcel that runs from the Route National (on the Vougeot side) all the way up to the Chateau de la Tour. Nice nose, earthy and spicy. Quite sweet dark fruit. Spiciness. Solid structure, but good balance. Big, but ripe tannins. Lots of intensity. Great length.

2006 Echezeaux A nice, still a bit restained nose. Crème de cassis. Pure, juicy, elegant. Lots of complexity. More feminine style compared to Clos Vougeot. Soft tannins. Very long.

2006 Richebourg Really terrific nose! Complexity is an understatement. So many layers!. Silky soft, pure, incredible depth. Lovely fruit. Lots of energy, lots of finesse. Amazing lenght. Mon dieu!

April 2008

Jean-Marc Roulot

This domaine was built by Guy Roulot at the end of the fifties and in the sixties. After the premature dead of Guy in 1982, the domaine experienced a roaring period. Guys son Jean-Marc didn't feel like taking over the lead of the domaine, because he wanted to sustain his career as an actor. In 1983 the Roulot family made the remarkable dicision to appoint Ted Lemon as their new winemaker. A Californian!

Well, this was actually not so strange as it seems, because Lemon got his education in Burgundy, and gained working experience at several Burgundian producers, i.e. Dujac. It was Jacques Seysses of Dujac who recommended Ted Lemon to the Roulot family.

I don't know if Lemon became homesick, but in 1985 he already returned to California. His succesor was Franck Grux. But not for very long, because in 1988 Grux changed to Olivier Leflaive (apperantly in the middle of the harvest period!). At this point Jean-Marc decided to give up his acting career and return to the domaine (in his youth he had already been working with his father). Jean-Marc made the domaine, that is now about 12 hectares, one of the superstars of Meursault. A richly deserved status, judging by the following wines that Daniela and I tasted (from bottle) with Jean-Marc:

2006 Bourgogne blanc  From several parcels all close to the border of appellation Meursault.  A sprinkle of wood on the nose, along with white fruits. Refreshing acidity. Small bitterness towards the end. Good Bourgogne blanc with Meursault character. 

2006 Meursault Les Narvaux  Quite expressive nose, flowers and dried fruits. Juicy and elegant on the palate. Not very complex, but really pleasant.

2006 Meursault Les Vireuils  More tight and focused than Narvaux. Good structure, elegance, minerality. Very fresh. Quite long finish. Nice.

2006 Meursault Les Meix Chavaux  Oak is a bit more aperant, but it’s well integrated. It starts round and full, after that it’s very elegant and fresh. Good complexity. Long, tight finish. Tres bien.

2006 Meursault Tesson "Clos de Mon Plaisir"  A flowery nose, with some oak and hazelnuts. A bit of sweetness on the palate, nice ripe fruit with lots of freshness. Round and elegant. Long, refreshing finish. A beauty!

2006 Meursault 1er cru Poruzot  A new vineyard for Roulot since 2003. Some new oak on the nose. Quite tight and vegetal. Not very rich. Still a bit closed, needs time. Some bitterness on the finish.

2006 Meursault 1er cru Les Perrieres  Rich nose with lots of complexity and beautifully integrated oak. Lots of freshness, richness and complexity. Very long finish with minerally grip. Great!

2004 Meursault Tesson "Clos de Mon Plaisir" A bit of reduction on the nose. Roulot would recommend decanting this two hours before serving. Very tight and minerally. Lots of grip and intensity, yet quite elegant. Very long finish, very tight and refreshing. Lovely!

April 2008

Jean-Philippe Fichet

Fichet is a relatively new name. Jean-Philippe started as a grower in 1981, but because of short-term contracts he had to rebuild his domaine in the nineties. He now has several long-term fermage and metayage deals, and also started a small negoce activity.

Jean-Philippe practices long elevages (18 month) but with little new wood and little stirring of the lees. He makes very pure wines, with lots of minerality and finesse. The style of his wines reminds me a bit of Roulot. Jean-Philippe will defenately be one of the future stars of Meursault!

2006 Hautes-Côtes de Beaune blanc  A tiny bit of –well integrated- wood on the nose.  Round, fresh, a bit spicy. Good length.

2006 Bourgogne blanc Flowery nose. Good body and freshness. Zesty finish. Nice "simple" Bourgogne.

2006 Bourgogne blanc Vieilles Vignes From two parcels very close to the borders of the Meursault appellation. More richness on the nose. Full, round. Good depth and length. A very nice “mini Meursault”!

2006 Monthelie blanc  A new parcel for Fichet. Replanted three years ago; this is the first harvest. Elegant and fresh, with a touch of wood. Pleasant wine, but not a lot of personality yet.

2006 Auxey-Duresses blanc  From a parcel high on the slopes. This vineyard was struck by a thunderstorm two days before the harvest. I couldn’t quite keep up with Fichet’s French here, but apparently the lightning caused the grapes to ripen very fast (?), and as a consequence the grapes were harvested a bit riper than Fichet wanted. This wine has indeed a rich, ripe bouquet. It’s round and fruity, but it lacks a little bit of freshness and minerality.

2006 Meursault  From threee small parcels: Limouzin, Chaumes de Narvaux and Les Cloux. Nice floral nose. Round and suave, but also juicy and fresh. Zesty. Good tension. Soft, lingering finish.

2006 Meursault Meix sous le Chateau Richer, fuller nose than Meursault. Full, round, a bit buttery. Less freshness, more fat on the palate. But the finish is more tight and fresh, and quite long.

2006 Meursault Les Chevalieres  White, zesty fruit on the palate. Very fresh and tight. Lots of elegance, lots of intensity.

2006 Meursault Gruyaches  A vineyard (80 years old) just below premier cru Charmes. Very nice, complex nose. Very supple and round, yet with lots of grip and minerality. Very long. Very, very nice.

2006 Meursault Tesson  Rich, generous nose. Round and a bit fat, but also fresh and pure. Lots of grip. Very young and still a bit closed. Great potential.

2006 Meursault 1er cu Genevrieres  A new wine for Fichet in this vinetage. This wine had to be slightly filtered, although Fichet usually doesn't filter. At this point it is therefore not very expressive. But it’s got lots of grip, and zesty fraicheur. Needs some time.

2006 Puligny-Montrachet  1er cru Les Referts  Nice, juicy, lots of beautiful fruit. Great balance and complexity. Lots and lots of grip and minerality. Wow!

2002 Meursault Les Criots Rich, flowery nose. Dried fruits, pear. Juicy, round, soft. Nice!

2002 Meursault  Gruyaches Tight, complex nose, nice fruit. Lots of grip and minerality. Very, very long. Still very youthful. Great!

2001 Meursault Les Chevalieres  Rich, ripened nose, slightly honeyed. Both full and fresh. Ripe apple and minerals. Very long.

2000 Meursault Meix sous le Chateau Generous nose. Good intensity, juicy and still very fresh and youthful. 

April 2008

Bernard Raveneau

Domaine Raveneau came to life in 1948, when François Raveneau brought together several vineyards from his and his wife's (she was a Dauvissat) families. He then made it one of the leading domaines of Chablis (together with Dauvissat; see below). After the dead of François his son Jean-Marie took over, who was soon joined by his older brother Bernard. The domaine is little less then 10 hectares. Just like at Dauvissat the key words are: lots of work in the vineyard, low yields, elevage in barrels (mostly used wood).

Nice reading: the story about Raveneau in Kermit Lynch's lovely book "Adventures on the Wine Route".

With Bernard we first tasted 2006. These wines were just assembled in cuves to be bottles, and were also quite cold. So they were a bit closed and difficult to taste. But still the class of these wines was obvious! After that we tasted 2007 from barrel.

2006, Chablis 1er cru Mont Mains

Pretty closed. Tight, lots of zesty acidity.

Good intensity and lenght.

2006, Chablis 1er cru Vaillons

More on the nose. Nice, floral.

A bit softer and rounder than Mont Mains. Elegant, fresh, very long.

2006, Chablis 1er cru Butteaux

Not much there on the nose now.

Very precise. Lots of acidity. Lots of minerality and grip on the finish.

2006, Chablis 1er cru Montee de Tonnerre

A bit floral on the nose. Tight yet elegant, minerally and steely.

Lots of grip, zesty and minerally.

2006, Chablis Grand cru Blanchot

Juicy, round. Fresh fruit. More richness here, and a little sweetness.

Finishes tight, a bit salty and with almost prickly minerality. Very long

2006, Chablis Grand cru Valmur

Somewhat stony nose. Tight, yet elegant and fresh. Again minerals and lots of acidity. More elegance than Blanchot. Long finish.

2007, Chablis 1er cru Mont Mains

Lots of fruit and flowers on the nose. Lots of acidity and grip.

2007, Chablis 1er cru Vaillons

A bit more roundness. Elegant. Tight, minerally finish.

2007, Chablis 1er cru Butteaux

Juicy, some bitterness. Pierre a fusil. Lots and lots of grip.

Already very nice, great future ahead.

2007, Chablis 1er cru Montee de Tonnerre

A bit prickly. Good grip and minerality.

2007, Chablis Grand cru Blanchot

Some reducion, difficult to taste. Good structure.

2007, Chablis Grand cru Valmur

Nice flower nose. Quite full and ripe, yet very fresh. Already a beautiful wine!

April 2008

Vincent Dauvissat

Does this domaine need any introduction? Well allright: Robert Dauvissat founded the domaine in 1931. He started with around 2 hectares, and he already bottled and sold the wines himself! 

His son René expanded the domaine, and made it one of the stars of Chablis, from 1989 with the help of his son Vincent (who now runs the domaine). 

Today the domaine consists of almost 12 hectares. The keys to success: lots of (biological) work in the vineyards, low yields and the well-proportionated use of wood (partly the traditional feuillettes). And of course Vincent's winemaking talents.

With Vincent we tasted the following wines in his cellar, mostly 2006's which were bottles last January.

2006, Petit Chablis
Grassy and a bit minerally on the nose. Quite full-bodied and rich, yet fresh and minerally. Relatively long finish. Although it's "just" Petit Chablis, this is already a very nice wine!

2006, Chablis
White fruit and some vanilla on the nose. Starts round. Then lots of intensity. Juicy. Finishes tight, with nice minerality. Very good!

2006, Chablis 1er cru Séchet
At first a bit closed on the nose. Then: richer than the Chablis, a bit of honey. On the palate: tight, dry, crisp. Very elegant and fine. Very complex. Minerality is almost a bit prickly. Very long finish. Very, very good.

2006, Chablis 1er cru Vaillons
Richer on the nose than Séchet. Spicy, floral, even reminds a bit of muscat. Less elegant than Séchet, but more body and richness. And also very good.

2006, Chablis 1er cru La Fôrest
Very expressive nose, spices and some dried fruits. Tight and fresh, yet with good weight. A very long "peakcock's tail" finish. Goes on and on! Stony, with lots of grip. Great!

Very nice to spot the huge difference between the three premier cru's. All just because of different terroir...

2006, Chablis Grand cru Preuses
Full and rich bouquet, lots of fruit and flowers. Starts juicy on the palate, round, full, yet elegant and fresh, even though it's still a bit restrained. Great finish, it almost "explodes" in your mouth! Lots of minerals, a bit smokey and even a bit salty. Very very long. Lovely!

2006, Chablis Grand cru Les Clos
This is an absolute baby. Very tight, already lots of intensity and minerally grip. Mouthfilling. Citrus-like acidity, some spiciness. So much potenial! Super length!

2001, Chablis 1er cru La Forest
Bottle is already open for 4 days, so it is  little bit "tired". A bit ripened on the nose, full, complex, some honey. Intense, round and ripe on the palate. Ripe fruit and herbs.

1987, Chablis 1er cru La Fôrest
Not a great vintage, but this wine is still very much alive! Incredible nose: pierre a fusil, coffee, almonds and some red cheese... Very fresh, fruity, refreshing zesty acidity. Good lenght. Unbelievable!

This has been a great tasting! First of all because of the quality of the wines: I'm glad some of Dauvissat's wines found their way into my Liebherr;-) But also because Vincent turned out to be a very friendly guy, and above all a very passionate winemaker who really enjoyed sharing his wine with us. Merci Vincent!

April 2008

Jean-Claude and his "magic barrel"

After the tasting of the Grands Jours de Bourgogne in Mercurey I was still in the mood for some more tasting, so I decided to visit Jean-Claude and Anna Brelière in near-by Rully.

This domaine has 7 hectares of vineyards all of which are in Rully. The domaine was founded in 1948 by Jean-Claude's father Rene. Since 1983 Jean-Claude and his wife Anna (of Italian origin) run the domaine. Half their production is white, half red.

In the cosy tasting room I taste 2006, after that I follow Jean-Claude to his cellar to try some 2007's from barrel.

The whites:

2006 Rully "La Barre" This vineyard is high on the slope, on the hills between Rully and Bouzeron. This wine is matured for 70% in oak, of which less than 10% new barrels. The grapes were harvested quite late, and some bunches showed a bit of pourriture noble. This still shows on the nose, that is ripe, flowery, and smells of grapes and orange peels. Yet on the palate the wine is dry.  It's fruity, juicy, with a nice, tight minerally finish. I like this!

2006 Rully blanc 1er cru Les Margotés This vineyard is on the southern end of the appellation, towards Mercurey. It's more full and rich on the nose compared to La Barre. It has a good body, with freshness and some minerality (not as much as La Barre though). It has a pretty, long, lingering finish.

The reds:

2006 Rully 1er cru Preaulx  Very fruity on the nose. Light-bodied, yet with good intensity, supple and fruity.

2005 Rully 1er cru Preaulx Very different from the '06, obviously. Rich, plummy fruit on the nose. Full, suave, concentrated. Tight finish, this needs some time (drink this after the '06).

2006 Rully 1er cru Montpalais Light colour. Small red berries on the nose. Supple and elegant on the palate, cherry and other red fruit. Refreshing acidity. Slightly minerally finish, with soft tannins.

2006 Rully 1er cru Champs Cloux Expressive raspberry nose. Bursting with fruit on the palate, full and juicy. Fresh, fruity finish. Nice wine, the most accessible of the three reds at this point.

2007

Although the malo isn't finished yet, it is nice to spot same difference between the two 2007 whites as in 2006. La Barre is showing it's mineral character, Margotés is richer and a bit honeyed. The red 2007 Preaulx is bursting with cherry, very nice and fresh.

Jean-Claude is satisfied with 2007. Weather has been pretty bad here (like in the rest of Burgundy) so the quality of the wine looks a lot better than expected. A lot of sorting has been done in the vineyard before the harvest, and this is really paying off!

Finally: have you ever wondered what it looks inside a wine barrel? Jean-Claude offers the solution. From one barrel he has removed the front and back-end, and replaced it by glass. That way you can see the lees on the bottom, and small bits of tartic acid on the sides of the barrel. Nice to see!

March 2008

David Clark

In 2003 David Clark gave up his glamorous job as a software engineer at the Williams Formula One team. He started working on a farm in Auvergne (thus improving his French) and after that he studied at the Lyceé Viticole in Beaune. In 2004 he bought his first vineyard as well as a former vintners-house (had not been used as such for 20 years, so it needed quite some refurbishing) in Morey-Saint-Denis and started making his own wine. A dream comes true!

Although he started with the humblest appellations (Bourgogne Passetoutgrains, Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire, Bourgogne rouge), David follows all the rules of making great Burgundy: very low yields (well inside Grand Cru regulations!), organic viticulture, the use of a vibrating sorting table, no fining or filtration. He has very clear thoughts on the sort of wines he wants to produce: as pure, fresh and natural as possible. That's why he abandoned the use of new oak. He thinks using new oak is “cheating”, he doesn’t want to add vanilla-flavors or tannins.

In 2005 David managed to acquire a tiny parcel of Morey-Saint-Denis village (only 0.1 hectares, producing one barrel of wine) and in 2006 he bought a 0.47 hectares vineyard north of Brochon (Côte de Nuits Village) from Regis Bouvier. His vineyard holdings are now about 2 hectares in total.

I hope that one day David will be able to lay his hands on some nice Premier Cru (or even Grand Cru) vineyards, because what he has achieved so far in his lowly appeations is truly exceptional!

First we tasted '06. These wines were racked into tanks, and ready to be bottled. This will probably happen before Christmas.

2006 Passetoutgrains Light purple color. On the nose it’s very pleasant. Animal, spicy. Fresh, ripe, sweetish. Bursting with fruit. Some spiciness. Very pure and fresh. Great thirst quencher. 

2006 Bourgogne rouge Bright cherry red. Lots of strawberry and cherry on the nose. Lovely fresh, crisp fruit. Good ripeness and balance. Very, very good at this level! 

After that we went to David's nicely renovated cellar to taste '07 from barrel.

2007 Pinot noir Destined for the Passetoutgrains. David vinifies Gamay and Pinot noir separately this year. For this particular barrel he didn’t use any sulphur. He is experimenting with this now, and would like to ban sulphur altogether. He believes this will reduce this risk of reduction. Indeed there is no sign of reduction in this barrel. Lots of raspberry-like fruit, very clean and fresh. 

2007 Cote de Nuits Villages New wine for David in this vintage. Some “malo-flavors” on the nose. Ripe, rich and pure fruit. Slightly spicy finish. Full and round. Very promising! 

2007 Morey-Saint-Denis Just one barrel made. The nose is marked a bit by the malo. Lots of beautiful ripe, candied fruit. Crisp, fresh, juicy. Great potential. 

2005 Bourgogne rouge “Au Pelson” From a vineyard in Chambolle-Musigny on the “wrong” side of the Route National. David bought this vineyard, that is planted with both Gamay and Pinot noir, from Christophe Roumier. The gamay is used for Passetoutgrains. David used 50% new oak on this, but only for four month. After that he racked the wine to used barrels. Still he thinks this is too much, so for 2006 he only works with used barrels. Lucious, ripe, fresh fruit. Some sweetness. Nice, refreshing, medium-long finish. Very good! 

2004, Pinot noir Floral nose, a bit smokey. Soft and round. Fresh fruit, good ripeness. Tannins a bit more present.

December 2007

Michael Ragg

Burgundy purists might be a bit skeptical about Mischief & Mayhem. A funny name, a New World-ish Cellar Door, stylish bottles with back-labels intending to “demystify Burgundy”. But I can assure you: the contents of the bottles is real Burgundian!

You can find all there is to know about Mischief & Mayhem on their excellent website (http://www.mischiefandmayhem.com) so I limit myself to just describing the wines (all 2005) that we tasted with Michael Ragg.

Chablis Although it is labeled as "just" Chablis, the grapes for this wine are from the Premier Cru vineyard Côte de Lechet. It is vinified without barrel-treatment.  Very fresh, open nose. Lemon, green apple. Good structure and intensity, crisp, some minerals. Medium-long finish. Very fine Chablis!

Bourgogne Chardonnay A blend of grapes from Maconnais (50%), Saint-Romain (15%) and parcels in Puligny-Montrachet and Pommard. No barrel treatment for this wine. On the nose it is more round and rich than the Chablis. Soft mouth-feel with good weight and freshness. Hints of nuts and honey. 

Meursault Fourteen month on barrels, 20% of which new oak. More yellowish colour. Very intense nose, honey, vanilla but also citrus. On the palate it is full, fat, a bit creamy, but also really fresh. Nice balance. Long, solid aftertaste. Nice.

Puligny-Montrachet Same barrel treatment as the Meursault, although it has been in barrel 6 weeks longer. Quite rich style for a Puligny. Butter, flowers, vanilla on the nose. Ripe, full, sweetish, but not overly so. There also some freshness and some minerals. Long, full finish that is marked a little bit by the alcohol (14%).

Bourgogne Pinot noir Fruity, cherry-ish nose. Very juicy and pure on the palate, red berries, the acidity sticks out a bit. Good structure and lenght, a little bitterness towards the end.

Gevrey-Chambertin 20% new oak, 80% one or two year old barrels. Very beautiful nose! Lots of dark cherries, a bit peppery. Full, spicy, ripe fruit yet very fresh. Long finish with soft tannins. Very good.

Pommard 1er cru Clos Blanc Raised on 25% new oak, the other 75% being one or two year old barrels. Very nice bouquet, direct, with cherry, creme de cassis and some nice eartyness. Round, full, ripe, very fruity. A bit spicy. Long, refreshing finish. Very smooth tannins. Very nice Pommard, not the least bit rustic like Pommards can be.

Vosne-Romanee 1er cru Petits Monts Michael had opended the other reds a few hours in advance, but this Vosne-Romanee was popped on the spot. That's probably why is was pretty closed on the nose. Yet on the palate it was very nice. Mouthfilling ripe fruit, a bit sweetish and spicy. Soft texture. Long finish with lots of soft tannins and minerals. Nice. 

December 2007

Tasting with Guillaume Tardy

The history of the domaine begins in 1920, when Victor Tardy starts working for Domaine Camuzet. 25 years later Etienne Camuzet gives him a few vineyards en metayage. In 1966 Jean Tardy takes over from his father, and he gets more vineyards (Clos Vougeot, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru, Vosne-Romanée 1er cru) from Méo-Camuzet, again under a share-crop agreement.

In 1981 Jean begins buying some vineyards, starting with generic appellations. After that he bought three village vineyards: Chambolle-Musigny in 1984, Nuits-Saint-Georges in 1989 and Vosne-Romanée in 1999. In 2002 a metayage-deal was closed for a plot of Echezeaux.

In 2001 Jean's son Guillaume gets in charge of the winemaking, after studies at the viti in Beaune and the university of oenology in Dijon and eight month of work experience as assistant-winemaker in Australia.

Guillaume keeps working in the same traditional way as his father, but makes some subtle changes towards his own (more modern?) style. Evolution, not revolution. Starting with the 2006 vintage he no longer crushes the grapes after destemming, in order to get even more freshness and fruitiness in his wines. Guillaume practices 18 to 20 days long vatting and maceration a froid. Barrel ageing lasts about 18 month, with around 25% new oak for the village wines, 50 to 60% for the premier crus and 100% for the Grand Crus.

Unfortunately, with the 2007 vintage the metayage agreements with Méo-Camuzet for Clos Vougeot and the Nuits and Vosne Premier crus ended. To (partly) compensate this loss, Guillaume acquired 0,42 ha of Fixin (first vintage 2006) and this year he also snapped up a parcel of Gevrey-Chambertin village and some Hautes-Côtes de Nuits vineyards.

With Guillaume we tasted all 2006's from barrel. Guillaume is very proud of his wines in this vintage. Rightfully so!

Fixin “La Place” First vintage of this wine for Tardy. The wine has not been racked, and is showing a little bit of reduction. On the nose there is red and black fruit, and some violets. On the palate it is spicy, brambly, with a lot of beautiful sweetish fruit. Very fresh and elegant. Ripe tannins. Guillaume thinks Fixin can often be rather rustic. He wants to make a Fixin “the Vosne-Romanee way”. I think he succeeded! This a very nice Fixin. 

Chambolle-Musigny “Les Athets” Lots of fruit. Lots of depth, lots of finesse. Lucious black fruit, cherries. Super soft. Lovely. 

Vosne-Romanée “Vigneux” Nice perfume. Full, round, fresh. Satin texture. Good length, ripe tannins. Very good. 

Nuits-Saint-Georges  “Bas de Combe” 45 year old vineyard, very close to Vosne-Romanee  1er cru Les Chaumes.  A bit more muscular than the previous wine, but still very elegant and fresh. Some spiciness. A Nuits with “Vosne-Romanee character”. Nice. 

Vosne-Romanée  1er cru Les Chaumes Nice cassis-nose. Starts very fresh on the palate. Fairly full-bodied. Good structure and balance. Really long finish. Ripe tannins giving good grip. Needs time, but will no doubt turn out great.

Nuits-Saint-Georges  1er cru Les Boudots 70 year old vineyard next to Malconsorts, and opposite to Les Chaumes. Quite spicy on the nose. Lots of very fresh black fruit. Ripe and round. Chocolaty tannins. Good stuff!

Clos Vougeot “Grand Maupertuis” Beautiful nose, lots of aroma. Fruit and nougat.  Precise, full, fresh. Finesse and complexity. Very ripe, seductive, sweetish fruit. Very long, velvety finish. Very, very nice! It’s very unfortunately that Tardy loses this vineyard… 

Echezeaux “Les Treux” Firm, more direct style than the Clos Vougeot. Full, complex, spicy. Very long, solid finish. Needs a bit more time than the Clos Vougeot, but it's just as nice. 

After the 2006's we tasted a 2004 from bottle (all 2005's were already sold-out):

2004 Nuits-Saint-Georges “Bas de Combe” Spices on the nose, a little bit vegetal. Quite a lot of fruit. Refreshing acidity. Spicy and elegant. Again more Vosne than Nuits. Not green or unripe. Very good in this difficult vintage.

December 2007

This is currently one of the most well-known producers from Chassagne-Montrachet. The domaine is run by Marc Morey's son-in-law Bernard Mollard. With Bernard's daughter Sabine we tasted some wines from different appellations and different vintages, which provided a good general picture of the quality of the domaine.


2006, Chassagne-Montrachet Nice flowery nose, with white fruit and a touch of honey. Good intensity, fresh zesty fruit. Some spiciness. Long finish. Nice Chassagne village.

2006, Saint-Aubin 1er cru Les Chaumois A bit floral nose with a lot of white fruit. Round, soft, a little bit sweetish. More weight than the Chassagne, but a bit less freshness. Easy. Soft finish.

2005, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru Vergers A bit low-key on the nose. Ripe, tropical fruits. Good structure. Quite rich, but still displaying some freshness. Long finish, with some minerals towards the end.

2005, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru Virondot Virondot is located just above En Caillerets, so quite high on the slope. More open and direct on the nose.  Crisp, zesty, white fruit. A touch of vanilla. Nice balance. White fruits, minerals. Long finish with good grip. Very nice wine.

2004, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru Virondot A bit more vegetal and spicy on the nose. Starts very fresh. A bit lighter structure than the ’05, but good balance. Juicy. Very fresh. Green herbs. Very long, tight, refreshing finale en bouche.

December 2007

This weekend I was with friends that I met during this years harvest at Anne Gros. So it was a great experience for us to be able to taste the wines that we helped harvesting ourselves. But that was not all.. Not only were we tasting 2007, but also 2006 and 2005. This was a really remarkable tasting, being able to taste three consecutive vintages of one of the best winemakers in Burgundy (hence, in the world). A great opportunity not only to compare the different vintages, but also to identify the characteristics of the different terroirs.

Most 2007s were already more or less finishing their malo. 2007 is a very special year according to Anne, she has never encountered a vintage where the malo started (and finishes) so early.

The wines were very accessible, and were giving a good insight on the quality of the vintage. Anne is very satisfied with the 2007 vintage. It has been a difficult vintage, it was hard deciding on when to start picking, but Anne says she does not regret anything. Having tasted the 2007s from barrel I can understand this. 

2007 Bourgogne-Hautes-Cotes de Nuits rouge From a parcel high on the hills, above the village of Conceur. Another part of this vineyard produces Anne’s white “Cuveé Marine.” Anne is very satisfied with the quality of the grapes in this difficult vintage. Because of the high altitude of the vineyard and the exposition to the east there was always a lot wind drying the grapes, so there was no rot here. Fruity, spicy, a bit animal on the nose. Very fresh and elegant, minerally. Slightly tingling mouth-feel (malo). 

2007 Bourgogne rouge One of the wines I helped harvesting, so it is hard to remain objective ;-) Less minerally, more fruity than the Hautes-Cotes. Very pure, fresh fruit. 

2007 Chambolle-Musigny “Combe d’Orveau” A bit smoky on the nose (because of the malo) along with red fruit and a few minerals. Ripe, sweetish fruit. Juicy. Raspberry and cherry. Refreshing acidity. 

2007 Vosne-Romanée “Les Barreaux” Black berries, dark cherries. High acidity because the malo has not yet finished, and this wine always having higher acidity because of the altitude of the vineyard. Lots of minerals as well. More body than the Chambolle, yet still very elegant. 

2007 Echezeaux "Loachausses” Anne calls this her “new baby” (it is a new wine for Anne in this vintage. The vineyard was leased for 50 years to Bernard Gros). I helped harvesting this one as well. Malo nearly finished. At the moment a bit restrained on the nose. On the palate lots of ripe fruit, lots of freshness, lots of minerals. Soft tannins. 

2007 Clos Vougeot “Grand Maupertui” Also harvested at the expense of a lot of back-pain for yours truly. Low-key nose for now. Full, round fruits. Black berries. Lots of depth, lots of finesse. Good grip. 

2007 Richebourg Not the best time to taste this wine now, it is showing a bit of reduction. There is also quite some gas and a bit smoky nose. The structure and depth are already present, so no doubt this will become a great wine.  

On to 2006. These wines are almost ready. The first wines (Bourgogne, Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits and Chambolle-Musigny) are already assembled in tanks, about to be bottled. 

2006 Bourgogne rouge Subtle, fruity nose. Very pure, fresh red fruit. Elegant. Some tannins on the medium-long finish. Nice. 

2006 Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits rouge A bit more earthy on the nose compared to the Bourgogne rouge. Very fruity, soft, a bit sweetish. Freshness and elegance. Nice.  The Hautes-Cotes is perhaps a bit more suited for early drinking. 

2006 Chambolle-Musigny “Combe d’Orveau”  Soft cherry-juice on the nose. Silky soft mouth-feel, fresh, a little bit spicy. Very elegant. Tres Chambolle. A bit higher acidity than the ’05. Very nice. 

2006 Vosne-Romanée “Les Barreaux” Ripe fruit, mouth-filling, fresh, lively. Wow! Very, very nice. 

2006 Clos Vougeot “Grand Maupertui” A bit flowery and earthy on the nose. Very pure, ripe, mouth-filling just like the Barreaux. A bit more richness and depth, yet still very fresh. Not the least bit harsh or tannic finish. Really nice. 

2006 Richebourg I don’t think I ever felt tears in my eyes before when tasting a wine. Well, this wine made it happen… So much depth, so much complexity, so much lovely fresh fruit. So long, it goes on and on. Just so yummy!! I start saving money to be able to buy a few bottles!  

And finally: 2005. We tasted this from bottles that were already open for a couple of days, but the wines still showed very well.  

2005 Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits rouge Flowery, cherry, raspberry. Round, fresh, soft and fruity. 

2005 Bourgogne rouge Even a bit more fruity than the Hautes-Cotes. Fresh. A bit more grip on the finish. 

2005 Chambolle-Musigny “Combe d’Orveau” This was already one of my favourite wines tasted this year. It was just as beautiful as the previous time. Why don’t I have a few cases of this at home? Life isn’t fair. 

2005 Vosne-Romanée “Les Barreaux” What I wrote on the previous wine is also true for this one. 

2005 Clos Vougeot “Grand Maupertui” Rich, attractive nose. Creme de cassis. A bit earthy. Splendid, mouth-filling, pure fruit. Lots of depth. Long, very soft finish. A true beauty. 

2005 Richebourg A tiny bit richer, but just as sublime as the ’06… Grande emotion.


November 2007

After our visit to Dujac we had a hearthy lunch in a small restaurant on the Hautes-Cotes. Good food, some wine and a comfy fireplace: now we are all ready for some more tasting! With Francois Millet we are going to try 2006 from barrel.

It is a pleasure tasting with monsieur Millet. He is a modest, softspoken man with a subtle, dry sense of humour.

Monsieur Millet says he is happy with the 2006 vintage after the much-hyped 2005. "2005 is impressive, 2006 is seductive. Seduction is like falling in love, you never forget that experience".

Chambolle-Musigny In this village wine the fruit of two premier cru parcels (Les Baudes and Les Fuees) is included. Medium cherry red. Flowers, stawberry, cherry. Soft, elegant, fresh. Cherryjuice, a little spiciness. Nice balance. Already pretty drinkable, but good structure for cellaring at least 10 years. Very nice wine.

Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru Les Amoureuses Medium cherry red. Expressive nose, flowers, all kinds of red fruits, some minerals. Slighty thicker structure than the Chambolle village, yet still very elegant. Silky soft. Lots of fruit, slightly spicy. Great balance and freshness. Very, very long, minerally finish. Great potential. Beautiful.

Bonnes Mares From a parcel close to the village, down the slope (terre rouge with more clay in the soil). Purple-ish hints in the colour. Straight, earthy nose. Very juicy, sappy, round. Rich texture. Already very accessible. Good freshness. Very long, earthy finish. Great wine.

Le Musigny Unbelievable, seductive nose. Very complex and elegant. On the palate: not just mouth-filling, it "explodes" in your mouth! Very, very complex, lots of depth. Full, suave, round, spicy, fresh. Tight tannins. Goes on and on. Although it is still a baby, it is already suberb!

These were indeed very seductive wines...


November 2007

It is very cold in Morey-Saint-Denis, so we are glad that we can wait in the cozy salon (nice painting of Amsterdam canals hanging here!) before we go the cellar with Martine Moreau-Sonntag. We are going to taste 2006 from barrel.
 
Morey-Saint-Denis  Light purple colour. Slightly spicy nose, raspberry, a bit animal. Fruity, fresh, with some spiciness and liquorice. Youthful finish, with soft tannins. Nice.

Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru Made from three different plots: Ruchots (60%), Millandes and Clos Sorbes. Darker colour then the MSD village. Spicy fruit, dark cherries. Suave, ripe, elegant, sweetish, very fruity. Fresh acidity. Soft, ripe finish. Very nice.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru Combottes Purple colour, with a pinkish rim. Spicy, plummy nose. Some traces of oak. Full, round, a bit earthy. More powerful than the Morey premier cru. Very long, spicy finish. Some astringency. Very nice.

According to Martine the Combottes vineyard (sandwiched between Grands Crus) is of Grand Cru quality. But because all owners of this cru are from outside Gevrey-Chambertin, it is not likely that the status of Combottes will ever change. 

Vosne-Romanee 1er cru Beaux Monts Cherry red colour. Ripe, fruity nose, with some nougat. Very soft, round, elegant. Ripe, fresh fruit. Very complex. Very long, very soft finish. Lovely.

Clos de la Roche Cherry red. Beautiful nose combining flowery and minerally notes, red fruits and stems. On the palate: WOW! Rich, supersoft fruit. Lots of depth and complexity. Really long finish, very soft tannins. Superb, elegant wine.

2006 is a really nice vintage chez Dujac! Frank, pure, fresh wines with lots of elegance.

Then Martine pops a half bottle for us to taste blind.
The colour has a orange glimpse. The bouquet is floral, vegetal (one taster mentioned a freshly cut potato...), there is also some peppermint and spices. On the palate it is tomatojuice-like, with very fresh fruit, high acidity. Long, herbal and acidic finish. A nice wine that is clearly a bit older. But how old? I guessed 1993. Wrong, it was a 1997 Clos Saint Denis. 


November 2007

The Chateau de la Velle originates from the 13th century. It is owned by the Darviot family since 1780. In 1973 the current owners, Bertrand and Bernadette Darviot (the 9th generation of winemakers), moved in. Before that, the domaine Darviot was located in Beaune.

Most of the domaines vineyards are still in Beaune, an exception being Meursault "Clos de la Velle" (right behind the chateau). The vineyards are worked "en bio" and of course the grapes are picked by hand.

With Bernadette Darviot I tasted the following wines (unfortunately not all wines where available for tasting, e.g. the Bourgogne Chardonnay and Meursault Clos de la Velle 2005):

2006, Bourgogne Aligote From a parcel located between Meursault and Puligny. Fresh, zesty nose. Starts full, round on the palate. Tasty. More body than the average aligote. A little (pleasant) bitterness on the finish. No need to "pimp" this with creme de cassis, this makes a nice aperitif on its own. 2004, Beaune Clos des Mosnieres (blanc) Very expressive nose, vanilla, flowers, just a whiff of oak. Starts juicy. Nice fruitiness. Elegant, round, fresh. Soft finish, quite long. No need to cellar this, it is very drinkable right now. 2005, Beaune 1er Cru Marconnets (blanc) This appellation is better known for its reds, but a small part of the vineyard has a type of soil (calcaire) that is better suited for chardonnay. Full and fat on the nose, some oak. Rich, fat on the palate, lots of body but it also has freshness and minerals to provide a good balance. Long aftertaste. 2005, Beaune Vielles Vignes de Saint Desiree (rouge) This vineyard is located high on the slopes, right above the well-known Clos des Mouches. Planted with vines that are over 40 years old. Lots of fruit on the nose, cherry and some kirsch. Youthfull on the palate, a bit austere at first, but very fruity as well. Cherry, blackberry. Freshness. Quite some acidity. Fairly long finish with lots of grip. Ripe tannins. 2005, Beaune 1er Cru Marconnets (rouge) Very perfumed on the nose, red fruits and a bit floral. Starts a bit sweet. Ripe, rich fruit. Full bodied. More structure and complexity than the previous wine. Long, full finish, with tannins that need some time to soften a bit.
 
 
July 2007

Last January I visited this domaine together with David Bolomey (who is the man behind the www.bordoverview.com website. But he also appreciates a good Burgundy). We picked the only wintry period this year in Burgundy for our visit. The icy roads in Chambolle-Musigny made it impossible to manoeuvre our car (still on summer tyres) through the gate of  Mugniers "Chateau de Chambolle-Musigny".
 

We were welcomed by monsieur Mugniers assistant Audrey. First she gave us a short tour through the newly renovated and extended vinification room. After that we descended into the cellar, where we got to taste all the 2005's from barrel. Due to the frosty weather the wines were pretty cold and a little hard to access, but still it was a remarkable "degustation". After the tasting we had the chance to meet monsieur Mugnier himself.

2005 Chambolle-Musigny Very fruity, round, fresh, some sweetness. Soft almost velvety mouthfeel. Long finish. Really good for “just” a village wine. 2005 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Marechale Darker colour than the previous wine. Spicy nose (but red fruits as well). More powerful and tannic than the Chambolle, but still elegant and fruity. A Nuits made “the Chambolle-way”. Very long finish! 2005 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuees More intense version of the Chambolle village. Thicker structure, more tannic, lots of fruit. Even longer finish. 2005 Bonnes Mares At the moment a bit stubborn compaired to the previous wines. Spicy. Good structure. Again: really long aftertaste. 2005 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses Beautiful nose despite the cold. Silky soft and concentrated. Mouthfilling. Soft, ripe tannins. Very elegant, and all the aspects of this wines are in the right place. Endless finish.  2005 Musigny More full-bodied than the Amoureuses, but just as beautiful. More concentrated, a bit more tannic, but very harmonious. Suberb! 2004 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Marechale When I told Audrey I have a few bottles of this at home, she immediately opens a bottle. The diffence with the 2005s is obvious. The nose is more floral and earthy. Chewy tannins. More acidity than the 2005. I know I will wait a few years before I start drinking my bottles.


January 2007