Harvest 2008

Fine, cold and dry:

Burgundy harvest begins in sunny weather

 

 

 

For some years now, Burgundy grapes have been harvested in early September. This year represents a return to normality! The Burgundy vineyards being more northerly, things are done later here than in the South of France. The grape harvest traditionally coincides with the beginning of autumn. With

picking expected to start around 25 September, 2008 marks a return to form.

 

It takes between 90 and 100 days for grapes to ripen fully after the vines have flowered. In the earliest sectors this year, the first flowers were observed in early June. Rather cool and wet weather during this period caused some flowers to fail to set, and in other cases the young berries did not develop. In late-flowering sectors, the grape yield was better, as summer weather conditions returned from 21 June.

The weather from then on was generally changeable. Some sectors were affected by violent hail storms, resulting in localised but in some cases significant losses. In any case, hail does not affect the quality but only the quantity of the harvest: no grapes will be picked from the damaged vines.

 

In these rather disturbed conditions, though the grapes began to change colour in mid-August as a prelude to ripening, the process was not completed until the beginning of this month. In the last ten days, the grapes have fully benefited from the renewed sunshine to ripen to maturity. A cool north wind has been blowing, keeping the vines in a satisfactory state of health. The chill wind is no problem;

plenty of sunlight is the key factor at this stage in the game.

 

The Burgundy Wine Office (BIVB)’s Observatoire du Millésime has been checking the state of the grapes since 21 August. Tasting and analysis of the grapes at this stage suggests that it will be a good year for Chardonnay. This is because a high level of acidity, which is the case this year, is an indicator of quality, giving the white Chardonnay wines an agreeable freshness. Crémants (sparkling wines) will benefit in the same way.

 

As for Pinot Noir, a more fragile grape variety, the return of more clement weather, dry and with plenty of sunshine, is helping the grapes to develop in terms of sugar content and colour. This means the growers can wait a few more days before beginning the harvest, allowing the Pinot Noir grapes to develop

their aromatic potential a little more each day.

 

In Burgundy, then, the harvest is beginning in sunny conditions. They began picking the Crémant grapes around 20 September, but most growers will be making a start between now and the end of the month. As for volumes, the mid-July estimate was that quantities would be very much in line with recent years

(approximately 1.5 million hectolitres).

Sunday, 28 September

 

It is cold (only 7 degrees Celcius) and still dark when I arrive in Vosne-Romanee for my first day of this years harvest. Anne Gros had started yesterday, picking Echezeaux and making a start with Clos Vougeot which we would finish first thing today. I have been told there had been some rot in Echezeaux, but Clos Vougeot was looking very good. Small bunches with small grapes, some unripe grapes but no rot at all and the grapes tasted very sweet.

 

We are with a large team of over 30 people today, so picking goes fast. After Clos Vougeot we go to Richebourg. Grapes are looking just as good here. Tiny bunches, with small, ripe grapes and no rot. Next vineyard: Vosne-Romanee village, a parcel called Les Barreaux located high on the slope, above the famous Cros Parentoux. 

 

Thursday, 30 August

Today I am on my way to Vosne-Romanee. Tomorrow will be the big day: after a few delays the harvest will start at Domaine Anne Gros. Because of the delays, I will only be able to work here for two days, unfortunately.

Despite the delays, harvest is still very early this year, almost as early as in the record-breaking 2003 vintage. This is because of a very hot spring. Temperatures got as high as 30 degrees Celcius in April and the first week of May. But after that, things started to get wrong. June and July were cold and wet, and there was little sunshine. August was a bit better (mostly dry and sunny, although there was also some rain from time to time) and this may have saved the vintage more or less.

In the afternoon I move in to my room in the guesthouse at the domaine, La Colombiere (http://www.maison-lacolombiere.com/) and I meet the other "non-local" harvesters. Italians Giulio and Sergio (with his family), Daniela (also from Italy) and the wine-crazy couple Nick and Aisling from London. 

Giulio prepares a delicious Italian meal, and soon all kinds of bottles are being popped, like the excellent 2005 Vosne-Romanee "les Barreaux" provided by Anne. What better way to prepare for tomorrows hard work?

Friday, 31 August

At 7.50 all harvesters (around 25 people) come together in front of the domaine. Weather conditions are perfect, it's dry, not too hot and partly clouded. We set of to the first plot to be harvested: Echezeaux. This is a new vineyard holding for Anne in this vintage. The 0.76 hectare plot "Loachausses" was leased for 50 years to Bernard Gros.

After arriving in Echezeaux, the harvesters are devived into teams. Each teams has around five coupeurs and a porteur. The coupeur cuts the grapes, and puts them in a bucket. Then the porteur comes and shouts "Pannier!" which is the sign for the coupeurs to empty their buckets in the large plastic basket on the back of the porteur. The porteur than carries the grapes to the tractor.

The coupeurs are performing a first selection in the vineyard. Unripe grapes, and bunches affected by rot don't go in the bucket. At the tractor, Anne or one of her employees does a triage.

In Echezeaux there is some rot, maybe 5 to 10 % of the bunches are affected. On the other hand, the remaining grapes are perfectly ripe, a lot of grapes are millerandees, dried and very sweet. Anne is happy with the quality of the grapes, she said it could have been a lot worse considering the weather conditions.

At 12 we go back to the domaine to have lunch: tomato salad, chicken with pasta, fruit pie and cheese. The red wine is from Languedoc, though not from the domaine that Anne has recently bought there.

After lunch, we finish Echezeaux and then move on to Clos Vougeot. Anne has a parcel here in "Grand Maupertui", on the highest part of the Clos, close to Grands-Echezeaux. There is almost no rot in Clos Vougeot. All healty, solid bunches.

At 18 hours the working day ends. By that time, my back hurts terribly. I am glad I can get a long and hot shower, and at this point I am glad I am only here for two days. I have lots of respect for the people who are doing this work the whole harvest period!

Saturday, 1 September

After a quick breakfast, picking starts again at 8 o' clock. The weather is perfect again, dry, not too hot, not too sunny. Anne is not feeling too well today, she is wearing a hat, a winter coat and a rain coat, and she is still cold. But it's harvest time, no time to be ill: the show must go on.

This morning we finish Clos Vougeot. Unfortunately Italians Giulio and Sergio have left yesterday night, but to make up for this loss there is the arrival of American "C.B." who is keeping the spirit up with his enthusiasm. After a hearty lunch, we move on to another plot. No Grand Cru this time: a parcel of Bourgogne Rouge, located in Vosne-Romanee, across the railroad. Considering the lesser appellation, the quality of the grapes is pretty good. There is little rot, just a few unripe bunches, and the grapes are a bit bigger and less concentrated then in the Grand Cru vineyards.

At 18.00 my grape picking adventure ends. Although at this point I feel like I am run over by a steamroller, I would have loved to stay longer. I hope to be back next year!


(Pictures of the harvest can be found in the picture gallery!)