Grands Jours de Bourgogne 2008

Today's event takes place in the buildings of the BIVB (Bureau Interprofessionel des Vins de Bourgogne) in Chablis, called Le Petit Pontigny. Beautifully restored buildings from the Middle Ages that once belonged to the Abbey of Pontigny.

With around 90 exhibitors present it is completely impossible to taste everything. But I tasted a lot of wines from several different producers, which gives a good insight in the 2006 vintage in Chablis. The producers told me it was quite a hot summer in Chablis in 2006. Conditions were apperantly better here than further south... It comes as no surprise that in '06 the wines are a bit more round and full then normal in Chablis. But in general the wines have a nice minerally backbone, and good acidity. They are still very "Chablis" in character. I think 2006 is a very good vintage here!

One of the highlights of the events is the tasting of the "Union des Grands Crus de Chablis". Of all 13 members a wine from the 2006 vintage is present. A nice line-up! Although the wines are very young and will need a few years to be at their best, some wines are already showing real Grand Cru character.

My number one is William Fevre's Bougros "Cote Bouguerots". Lots of intensity and grip, nice balance and lenght. I also like Chateau Long-Depaquit's Moutonne (very tight and minerally, very long) and Pascal Bouchard's Les Clos (full and juicy, with a tight, steely finish). 

The Côte Chalonnaise is often neglected, or considered inferior to the Côte d'Or. Unrightfully so, as I am finding out on today's tasting in Mercurey. Lots of pleasant surprises here!

First surprise: Mercurey. I tasted a lot of nice 2006 reds here, '06 is a pretty good vintage for this appellation. Nice pure wines, with lots of fruit, elegance and minerality. And real Burgundian character. I tried nice wines chez Luc Brintet, Jean-Pierre Chartron, Patrick Guillot and Chateau d'Etroyes. And my personal favorite: Domaine Philippe Garrey. Philippe took over the very small family domaine (3,5 ha) in 2002, and this year completed the conversion to bio-dynamics. He makes very honest, fresh wines that are just delicious!

There are some whites made in Mercurey as well, but for whites I would rather look at other appellations. Like Rully. Red Rully can be good also, but especially the whites here are very convincing. For instance from Anne Debavelaere, Jean-Baptiste Ponsot or Jacqueson. Other nice whites come from Stephane Aladame in Montagny.

From Givry I like both white and red, particularly from Domaine Masse. If this name sounds familiar to you: this is indeed the nephew of Hospices de Beaune regisseur Roland Masse. I guess wine making talent runs in the family.

Now that we are on that subject: Pierre de Benoist is the nephew of Aubert de Villaine, and he is the winemaker at his uncle's domaine in Bouzeron. He made a very fine Bouzeron 2006, quite concentrated and ripe yet with a lot of freshness and minerality. His Bourgogne blanc "Les Clous" and Bourgogne rouge "La Digoine" are very nice as well.

A bit to the west from Bouzeron we find the appellation Côtes de Couchois. Leading producer in this little known area is Alain Hasard with his Domaine les Champs de l'Abbaye (working en biodynamie). His red Couchois "Les Clos" '06 will be hard to find, but is worth looking out for! He also produces nice Rully blanc, red Côte Chalonnaise and Mercurey.